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Good pruning is mostly about what you leave, not what you take. Each cut is a wound the tree has to seal, so the aim is to make as few as possible and put them in the right places — just outside the branch collar, on limbs chosen for a reason.
That is the difference between pruning and what is sometimes sold as pruning. Topping a tree — cutting the main leaders back to stubs — makes it smaller for a season and then triggers a flush of weakly-attached regrowth that is more likely to fail than what was there before. We do not do it, and we will explain why if you have been offered it.
What’s included
- Deadwooding — removing dead, dying and broken limbs
- Crown thinning to let wind and light through without stripping the canopy
- Crown reduction using proper reduction cuts to a lateral, never topping
- Clearance pruning from roofs, gutters, driveways and walkways
- Structural pruning on young trees to build good form early
- Fruit tree pruning for shape, airflow and yield
- All arisings chipped and removed

When to prune what
Timing matters more for some species than others:
- Late winter, before bud break — best for most shade trees. The structure is visible, wounds seal fast in spring, and disease pressure is low.
- Oaks: avoid April to the end of July. Fresh cuts in the growing season attract the beetles that spread oak wilt. Prune oaks in the dormant season wherever possible.
- Elms: same principle — dormant-season pruning reduces Dutch elm disease risk.
- Birch and maple bleed sap in early spring. It looks dramatic and is largely harmless, but pruning them in summer or late autumn avoids it.
- Dead and hazardous limbs: any time. Safety does not wait for a season.
Do you need a permit to prune?
Usually not. Toronto’s Private Tree By-law is aimed at removal and at injuring a protected tree, and routine maintenance pruning of a healthy tree generally falls outside it. Heavy pruning is a different matter — taking a large proportion of the live crown off a protected tree can be treated as injuring it, and that does require a permit.
Since we would not recommend removing that much live crown in one go anyway, this rarely becomes an issue on our jobs. If your situation is close to the line, we will flag it before the work rather than after. More on the by-law →
Common questions
How often should a mature tree be pruned?
For most established shade trees in Toronto, every three to five years is plenty. Annual pruning of a mature tree is usually unnecessary and can be counterproductive — a tree needs its leaves to make food. Young trees benefit from more frequent light structural pruning to set up good form.
Can you cut branches off my roof and gutters?
Yes, clearance pruning is one of the most common jobs we do. We take the limbs back to a sound lateral so the regrowth does not immediately head back toward the roof, and aim for realistic clearance so you are not calling us back every season.
What is topping, and why won't you do it?
Topping means cutting main stems back to stubs with no regard for where the natural branch structure is. It removes a large share of the leaves the tree needs, exposes the trunk to sunscald and decay, and provokes dense regrowth that is poorly attached to the stub. The result is a tree that is more dangerous in five years than it was before. Proper crown reduction achieves size control by cutting back to laterals that can take over — it is a different technique with a very different outcome.
Will pruning fix my tree's thin canopy?
Not by itself. A thinning crown is usually a symptom — root damage, compacted soil, drought stress, a girdling root, or disease. Pruning out the dead material tidies the tree and reduces the risk of falling limbs, but the real work is finding the cause. We will tell you what we see.
Ready to get it sorted?
Call for a same-week look at the tree, or send the details through and we will get back to you.
